The baseboard heating systems are popular in the households for keeping the places warm quickly and efficiently. The maintenance of the system might require a bit more than just making sure that the metal framework remains dirt and dust-free so that the heat can be distributed evenly and effectively.
And at least once a year make sure that you clean up all the water that has accumulated to make sure that it runs smoothly. Simple, right?
Well, not quite so – until or unless you know what you are supposed to do.
How Does It Work?
The boiler warms up the water, which eventually heats the hydronic heating system baseboards. This ensures that the temperature remains even across the dashboard.
However, as time goes on, sediments start to build up in the system’s dashboard, pipes, and expansion tank. This results in lowering the efficiency of the heating system as sediment blockage impedes the flow of water through the baseboard.
As time goes on, the sediment buildup continuously diminishes the tank’s ability to manage the water pressure.
As this situation continues to worsen, it becomes essential to drain and refill the water from the baseboard heating system.
How To Drain & Refill The Water On Baseboard Heating System?
It’s simple. All you need to do is to have the following tools and follow these steps to ensure the seamless circulation of water throughout the system.
Step 1: A Little Warm-Up
Start the heater with a medium level heat to circulate the water throughout the system. Run the heater for an hour approximately and then switch it off. Make sure you turn off the circuit breaker as well. You don’t want to get electrocuted anyway.
Step 2: Finding the Heat Valve
You’ll find the main system tank in the basement. At the bottom of the tank, find the bleed valve which looks like a hose outlet, usually with a threaded edge.
Turn off the gas valve of the boiler by using a wrench. This should be a brass valve which connects the building’s gas pipe outside of the boiler unit.
Step 3: Putting Safety First
To avoid a lot of leakage on the valve, put an absorbent material over the nozzle during the bleeding process. Moreover, place a bucket on the floor, right under the nose to avoid a lot of spill on the base.
Also, give it a couple of hours for the heating system to cool. The water from the boiler must be cooled down before continuing, to avoid an accident.
Step 4: Managing the Leakage
Attach the garden hose (female) fitting to the drain fitting of the boiler. It may be marked at the bottom of the furnace with a “Drain “label. As for the male end of the garden hose, direct it towards the drain on the floor. Start by twisting the valve clockwise to begin the drainage process. You may need a slotted or hex screwdriver to turn the screw counter-clockwise.
Open the bleeding screw gradually, one by one, until all the bleeding screw threads fitted near the top of the baseboard are dismantled. This allows air to enter the system, which helps push the water out of the boiler much quicker than usual.
There may be a shrill hissing sound indicating the exit of hot air from the system. Keep safe distance as the water and air leaking out of the system may be a little warm. Avoid direct contact with the pool or the air during this period.
Step 5: Turn Off the Valve
Turn off the bleed valve counter-clockwise clockwise until you see a steady stream of water flowing in out of the pipe. Keep a close eye on the male fitting of the garden hose.
After a steady stream of water outflow, it would stop draining out of the system. This indicates that the air has been removed, along with the debris and sediments that were part of the hydraulic system of the heater. Once that happens, it is time to remove the garden hose and close the boiler drain fitting.
Turn the hose fitting counter-clockwise clockwise to remove it from the central system and turn the drain’s accessory clockwise to close it. Plug in all the screws into the relevant slots and tighten them up with the screwdriver.
P.S: Some of the modern fittings have a diaphragm instead of the drain fitting.
Step 6: Refilling the Tank
Turn the boiler’s supply valve clockwise to open the water supply and to start filling in the water again. Open the screw on the baseboard near the pan using a screwdriver and turn the screw counter-clockwise.
This is to ensure that the water that is pushed into the boiler pushes out any air bubbles that are driven into it. Once the water starts to come out of the bleeder fitting, close it and replace the screw into the joint.
Step 7: Switch the Boiler On
Now turn on the gas valve of the boiler using the wrench by turning the valve’s handle in the clockwise direction—light up the pilot as per the instructions on the guide. Finally, switch the circuit breaker as per the manual.
Safety & Precautions For Baseboard Heating System
The baseboard heating system must be well managed and cleaned up to ensure its long life. And whenever you are doing that, make sure that you are investing enough time in providing that you are doing it the right way.
Always make sure that you turn off the power supply entirely before handling the heating system.
Draining Water Off Baseboard Heating System
The draining and refilling of your baseboard heating system can be agitating and a little time-consuming. Be patient. It’s worth it!
- Invest enough time towards understanding how your baseboard heating system works and its parts. Refer to the manual if needed or do it under the supervision of an expert.
- The main pipe or the coil feed is usually made up of PVC and leads directly from the mainline towards the boiler. This is meant to drive cold water into a heated one, which is pushed back out into the loft tank.
- The other pipe usually made up of brass, is the feed that goes from the bottom of the tank down towards the system. You need to turn the tube off, to begin with, the cleanup process.
- Often this is the pipe that joins the central part of the heating system, and that’s where you can get some blockages, and that’s what you’d like to clean if you are having trouble filling it up.
- There are instances where you’ll find a valve in the pipe itself, but in case you don’t see it, and you’re clueless about what to do, then you may close the main water source pipeline. What it would do is turn the supply off to the ball valve, thus helping you drain down the system when you intend to do so.
- Find the lowest drain leakage. You may have it on the lowest floor, which may be the ground floor or the basement. It should be close to the ground – about a couple of inches from the storey – and doesn’t have a drop-down leg as well.
- In case you have that, then you may end up draining and refilling the pipes separately here. So, make sure that you trace out the tubes carefully, so you drain out all the water in one go.
- Make sure that you have the safety measures in place – towels and a garden hose. This may seem trivial or perhaps hectic, but some small steps can help you avoid a lot of trouble. Make sure the tube is of the right size and that it fits snugly into the opening of the drainage.
- Extend the hose towards the drainage. Do not shove the pipe into the trash as you would like to see the progress with the flow of the water regularly.
- Effectively what you are doing done with your system is putting down the vacuum on each of the radiators. You have let the water out of the tank. Moreover, the main pipe must have also emptied, but each of the heaters is now going to need a bit of air blown out of it when it’s opened. You can do that with a radiator bleed key.
- It has a little bit of taper at the end of it, and it’s always handy to use, especially with some of those ancient radiators as they tend to tend rusty and they get painted multiple times.
- Start by finding the highest radiator bleed in the house, often that you be in the bathroom, if you have got a towel rail, that’s the best place to start – perhaps right from the top of it.
- But if you’re someone who has got multiple (around four to five radiators in the house), so you need to go the top floor (where the heater is situated), open that up and you’ll start hearing air getting sucked into that radiator.
- Just hold on the bolt with an adjustable wrench and twist the nut inside it with the help of the bleed key. You’ll start hearing some hissing out – an indication of air being sucked in.
- Do that systematically to each radiator and remember which ones you have opened because when it comes to fitting them later, you don’t want to forget to close any. Otherwise, this may result in a severe hazard.
- Finally, go down the house, after you have opened each of the radiators, once you have realized that the system level is going down, and each one of them is draining correctly. If you aren’t sure whether any of the radiators hasn’t dumped down entirely yet, make sure that the lockshield is open, and if you have got those thermostatic radiators, make sure that its valve is spacious as well.
Refilling Water On Baseboard Heating System
After about 20 minutes to one hour, depending on how many radiators are fixed inside the house, the amount of water should eventually get drained off. You might want to leave it around for a bit longer, and that’s not a bad idea if you are sure that some of the water which is clogged somewhere in the pipe would eventually make its way down into the hose.
This should pretty much suffice for the drainage of the water. Next is the refilling of water into the baseboard heating system. As indicated before, make sure that all the radiator bleeds that you opened earlier are now closed—each one of them.
Switch on the feed valve carefully now. Remember that your drainage valve with the hose is still open, and we have a good reason for that. When you opened the radiator bleeds you pushed all the air in, but now you would like to get it pushed out so that there’s no air or vacuum in the heating system.
You’ll notice that the hose would start leaking some water. You may want to leave it like this for a while (approximately ten minutes) until all the air is pushed out of the system.
Finally, after some time has passed by, shut down the drainage valve and pull out the hose safely from the vent. Then starting from the ground floor, make sure that each of the radiators is air free by opening the valves and checking if there’s any air being pushed out.
The idea to start from the ground floor is that if you let the air pushed out from the bottom and then carry it on upstairs, it would be more effective.
Once you have done the above, you can consider starting your heating system again. Enjoy the warmth in the comfort of your home. Repeat the process at least once every year, ideally right before the winter season so that you don’t have to bear any trouble during that time.